Although the purpose of my trip, unlike others I have taken, was purely backpacking, it was impossible to ignore the poverty surrounding me. Being secluded on the island in Belize, it wasn't very striking to me there, but in Guatemala I feel like it deserves a post of its own.
In Guatemala there is a literacy rate of 69% (CIA World Fact Book). Approximately 50% of Guatemalan children under the age of 5 suffer from chronic undernutrition.
Poverty is nothing I haven't seen before, and Guatemala, compared to other countries I have worked in, was quite prosperous. That said, there are high rates of child labour and high levels of discrimination against indigenous people. The child labour and begging was higher than in many countries I have been to and was very prevalent, particularly in Antigua (begging) and in the rural areas and Mayan villages (labour).
During my trip I read the book
Damned Nations by Samantha Nutt (who graduated from my University!) It was a great read- she is obviously very knowedgable about international development and has a huge amount of experience. I agreed with 95% of what she wrote (there are a few points in which I didn't totally agree with, but that's another post). Samantha spent part of the book talking about all the things that good intentioned people do wrong. People with big hearts who want to 'help', but end up causing more harm than good. Having done some of these things myself, I recognize changes that need to be made and that I am still learning. I found her words very helpful.
One thing of particular interest, which I have been feeling for a long time, was her talk about orphanages. Particuarly after the earthquake in Haiti, hundreds of people around the world wanted to swoop in and build orphanages to take care of the newly orphaned Haitian children. Good intentioned, yes, but incredible damaging to the children and to the future of Haiti. With so much money going into orphanages, families began giving their children up to orphanages hoping for them to have a better life. In no way is this sustainable, but more importantly, no orphanage is a replacement for a family and many children who grow up in orphanages become damaged adults. Certainly moving forward I have decided that I won't be supporting orphanages, however I do feel like there is an exception- children with special needs.
As anyone reading my blog knows, I have a passion for special needs and I support an orphanage in India for children with special needs. All of these children were abandoned by their families and many were left to die in hospitals or government orphanages. In the future, when countries become more developed, certainly I hope that orphanages for all children won't be needed, but having seen the conditions that these children are left to die in, I absolutely think that this is an exception to the rule and that orphanages for children with special needs must continue until no child is left dying because of their disabilities.
Getting back to Guatemala...
Two blocks from my hotel in Antigua was a huge yellow building,
Hermano Pedro (named after the saint who lived in Guatemala in the 1600's and did a lot of great work to support the poor). Part of Hermano Pedro's mission included caring for over 300 people, providing services mainly to disabled adults and children who live within the compound, but also supporting others through a malnutrition ward and other ill patients who come for healing and care.
My time in Guatemala was so packed, and I wasn't really available to fully invest myself into learning more about Hermano Pedro, but I was thrilled to be able to head over early one morning for about an hour to visit and learn more about what they do. I walked in and was directed to the children's area. I passed a courtyard where adult men, all in wheelchairs, sat, and continued on to the children. I arrived to about 30 kids, again all in wheelchairs, sitting in a big courtyard. There were 3 women there. Two were folding laundry and one was cleaning wheelchairs. None were interacting with the kids at that point, as they had work to do. I quickly explained in Spanish why I was there and asked if I could help.
One staff member brought me over to the kids and pointed out the most able of the bunch, Leslie. She appeared to have autism, although was unable to stand or walk- whether from cerebral palsy or from early neglect, I am not sure. She was also blind. I quickly learned that she was a favourite of the staff, and so they asked me to take her out of her chair and play with her. I did. The women all called to her, calling her princesa. She had earrings on and pink shoes on her feet and appeared very loved. I put Leslie back in her chair, and looked over the other children, making my way to each one and kissing them, cuddling them, talking to them. The carers quickly took Leslie back out to sit with them as they folded laundry. The other kids remained in their chairs, although another staff member turned music on to stimulate them a bit. I had such a hard time choosing who to take out of their chair next. I may sound judgmental of the women for not interacting with the other kids, but that is not at all how I feel. Three women can only do so much. Caring after one special child, I have learned, is a full time job for one person. It must be really difficult for the staff to decide how to manage their time; feeding kids, cleaning, doing laundry, giving meds, sweeping, etc. leaves little time for actually interacting with the kids.
One little boy caught my eye. Already his face is fading from my mind and I wish I could better remember what he looks like, but I would guess him to be around 9 years old. His body was twisted with cerebral palsy and he looked uncomfortable in his wheelchair. He caught my eye every time I walked by, and then he would start crying. I approached him and he grabbed hold of my fingers and wouldn't let go. I learned his name was Carlitos and I held him for the rest of the hour. He squeezed my fingers again but didn't cry when I put him back down. I wonder if he got held again that day?
Yes, I totally agree with Samantha Nutt that orphanages need to be a thing of the past. They are not a healthy environemnt for kids, which is why we don't have them in Canada or the USA anymore. But how do we get to that point? First off, don't support orphanages financially or with your time. Instead, put your efforts into more sustainable projects that promote empowerment.
That said, what about the kids with special needs? The reality is that in a developing country, if parents have work they most likely work long hours trying to scrape together enough money to feed their families. Unlike here in Canada, schools won't accept children with disabilities. There are no day programs or services like physiotherapy easily available. Reality is that these children are abandoned because otherwise, they will be at home in bed all day long. Discrimination and myths about special needs leads parents to feel guilt and shame. Many children are abandoned in hospitals and some are left to die- deemed worthless to society. What do we do about these children? Certainly, orphanages are, in many cases, the only option for their lives to be saved.
I saw a lot of things at Hermano Pedro that I really liked. First, the kids appeared well cared for in the sense that their basic needs were all met. They were, for the most part, plump and well fed. The girls all had earrings and most of the kids had shoes on their feet. Their hair was brushed and in ponytails. Every single child had his own wheelchair. Best of all, they act as an orphanage but also as a support to the children's families. Most of the kids were not there when I visited, as they were at home for the holidays. The parents are encouraged to visit and to take the kids home during holidays. They are able to be a continuing presence in their kids' lives, with the home being more of a long-term respite, which many families here in Canada with children with special needs do, if the kids' needs are too great for them to manage on their own.
Visiting Hermano Pedro was definitely a special experience for me, and one that began my reflecting on the future of kids like Carlitos. What is the best way to care for these kids? How can they be integrated into society and how can families be kept together? Many people say that orphanages need to be closed- is this true for children with special needs as well or are these orphanages more necessary because of their great needs? Lots of questions!
(Note- photos taken from blogs of other volunteers, I did not take any photos).
